company - education - coffee

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Cerrado, Cachoiera, Cruz Branca ...

Andrew over at Ecco Caffe sent me a bag of Cerrado, Carlos Diamante. Fazenda Cruz Branca (aacck, only three bags!!!) I know that these Cerrados have shown a great potential for a great many of us for SOS in the inherent sweetness of the coffees due to the controlled processing methods. I will pick Andrew's brain and report back with some info. Screen drying and some more inventive techniques are being used on these farms to produce some exceptional lots of coffee. I noticed UK blogger Hoffman is also enjoying these coffees and I feel the buzz as other roasters are beginning to take notice. It wasn't that long ago that Andrew was the only person I knew with this coffee and now you see more and more mention of it cropping up.


" on Gabriel Carvalho Dias's Fazenda Cachoiera.Gabriel processes
his coffees , employing both pulped natural and natural methods . He is a 4th
generation farmer and has had the brilliant vision to stay with his family's
bourbon stock when most Brazilian farmers were abandoning this gorgeous heirloom
for new hybrid varieties . The Fazenda Cachoiera has an ideal climate and
terroir . Coffees are grown at 1400 meters ( very high altitude for Brazilian
coffee . Gabriel is an artisan at processing and his meticulous growing
practices continue to produce numerous Illy and CoE winning lots .

Had been purchasing Gabriel's coffee from Stephen Hurst's Mercanta ( London
-also the source of James Hoffman's Canario , which is another Fazenda Cachoiera
offering - only 8 bags !) , We are both big fans . Stephen offers Gabriel's
pulped natural selections. Last year's Brazil CoE was very close to the
Fazenda Cachoiera. Spent some time with Gabriel at the farm and learned about
his screen drying ( African raised bed ) for his naturals ( pulped naturals too
). He told me that the screen dried coffees were being allocated for Japan ,
feeling that the intense cost of labor involved would prove too pricey for the
North American market. Anyways , he sent samples of 4 of his different bourbons
, screen dried pulped natural , pulped natural , natural and screen dried
natural . Our clear favorite in both cupping and SOS tastings was the screen
dried naturals ( we are working with Gabriel and Jason on this ). Word is that
the new crop is cupping out beautifully and will be much better this year. Hope
that is the case. If so , Ecco will step up with a big order."
- Andrew Barnett

The Diamante which was awarded 1st in the 2005 Brazil Cerrado Quality Competition, is patio dried where the Diaz was natural screen dried. The drier weather puts the Diamante more in line with Daterra farm in terms of climate. Where the Cachoeira has lots of fruit, the Diamante is heavy on layered cocoa flavors. And I was able to confirm, yes, Cachoeira farm does have monkeys!